Powered By: Auto Loan Calculator

This is a Car Loan Payment Calculator so that you can figure what your payment will be before going to a dealership. There are a few things you must first know before calculating your Auto Loan Payment.

It is a little hard to read, but the first line is the amount of the car you are buying. This amount would have to include your sales price, sales tax, any extra fees, and any warranties or insurance products added to your loan. In other words, with this car payment calculator, you have to know the total amount you would be financing.

The second line of the car payment calculator is the Interest Rate you are charged on the car. This is something you may have to guess at or do an application to find out the interest rate. If you have great credit, you can call around to local banks and find the best going rates. If you have not so good credit, enter a higher number here to get an idea. As a guide, there are not many loans over 20%.

The last line on the Auto loan Payment Calculator is the length of the loan in years. How many years do you want to finance the car. If you want to finance for 60 months, enter 5, for 5 years. If you want to finance for 6 years, enter 72.

After these numbers are entered, hit the calculate button at the bottom of the payment calculator to figure how much your car payment will be. This is used for a guide and different finance companies may compound interest differently. Just use this car payment calculator as a guide to get an idea of what price car you can afford.

DriveTime Car Loans is a company that specializes in helping those who have not the best of credit. If you have ever been turned down for a car, you know how bad it makes you feel. Well, DriveTime has an atmosphere like no other. They treat you like royalty!

Bad credit, no credit, no problem.

Apply online; it takes 2 minutes.


If you live in or around one of the following cities, or anywhere in the US for that matter, Apply Online for your Auto Loan: Albuquerque New Mexico, Atlanta Georgia, Austin Texas, Charlotte North Carolina, Dallas Texas, Denver Colorado, Greensboro North Carolina, Jacksonville Florida, Las Vegas Nevada, Los Angeles California, Norfolk Virginia, Orlando Florida, Phoenix Arizona, Raleigh North Carolina, Richmond Virginia, San Antonio Texas, Tampa Florida, and Tucson Arizona. Get a great car and improve your credit.

DriveTime is adding stores throughout the US so there is probably one near you! The only requirement for DriveTime is that you make at least $1200 per month, and you have to be 18 years of age. If you need a car and do not have the best of credit, DriveTime is the answer.

Do I qualify for 0% Financing? This is a question I get asked all the time, especially with GM's 72 Hour 0% Finance Sale.

There are a few things GMAC or other lenders will look at when granting 0% interest on a loan. They will see if you have had a car loan before and how you paid. If you were late 10 out of 20 payments, it may be hard to get 0% interest. They will also look at Mortgage Payments as well to see how you paid. That is the 2 main factors when figuring 0% interest. There are other things to consider as well that are a little more complex.

The Lender will look at how much you are financing compared to how much you make. You will not get a $40,000 car if you make $1500 per month. This is common sense, you must be able to afford the auto.

Even though you are getting 0% interest on your car loan, you can still negotiate the price of the car. The fastest and easiest way to get the VERY BEST PRICE is Get quotes from Yahoo! Autosbecause their service is FREE and will insure you get the best price possible. Local dealers will Fight, I mean Compete, for your business!

The Lender will also look at how much you are financing compared to how much the car costs. If you have major Negative Equity, it may be hard to get 0% financing. If you have $15000 Negitive Equity to roll into the car you are buying, the lender may want you to take the Rebate instead of 0%. Most lenders will finance 115% to 125% of MSRP. On the high end using 125%, a $30,000 car would finance a maximum of $37,500. If you are $10,000 upside down, you would have to pay $2500 down or use the rebate instead of 0%.

The Finance Company will also look at your Credit Score. Usually a Credit Score of 750+ will grant you 0% automatically even if you are carrying a little more negative over to the car you are buying. A credit score above 650 will get you 0% financing if you are not financing too much over MSRP. A score below 650 could get you 0% depending on Down Payment, Past Credit History, etc. The lender is more interested in the structure of the deal. They LOVE to see Money Down. The Finance Company likes to see 10% to 20% down payment on all loans. When there is an initial investment on the car from the buyer, the loans are more secure because the buyer is invested in the car.

HELPFUL CAR BUYING TOPICS:
New Car Negotiation, Price Quotes, and Finance Advice
Car Buying Price Negotiation
Auto Insurance Saving Tips
Extended Auto Warranty Advice
Bad Credit Car Loan
Get The Lowest Price From Your Local Dealer
Subscribe To Car Buying Tips

I first must say something that many do not want to hear. The job of a Car Salesman is to sell their car at the highest price possible and the customer is trying to buy the car at the lowest price possible. This is automatically set up to cause conflict, but you must realize a car salesman is hired and trained to make the dealership money. This makes some angry, but think about your own job. You are hired to make your boss or your company more money. If you are in customer service, your job is to make customers happy so they spend more and come back more often. If you work on an assembly line, your job is to perform your job as fast as possible to make more units at a lower cost per unit so your company can make more money. Any job you think of is in place to make the company money unless you work for a not for profit organization.

When you understand that a car salesman is there to do a job, it will be a lot easier to haggle and get a better price. Let me say this though. If your salesman lies or cheats you in any way, this is a whole different issue, I have no sympathy for a lying salesman--throw them to the wolves! I say haggling or dickering is good clean fun for both parties. Many customers enjoy this part of the sales process and many hate it, but I will show you easy steps to get a better deal on your next new or used car, truck, or SUV.

Now, with all that said, lets assume you know what car you are going to buy. You have done your preliminary research and have narrowed it down to at least a certain class of cars. You may be to the point you are comparing a Pontiac G6, a Nissan Altima, and a Toyota Camry. Try to narrow down to the point you are comparing 3 cars or 3 trucks etc. Don't get to the point you are comparing a Nissan Maxima and a Toyota Corolla unless you want to see which is going to be in your budget. You don't know how daunting it is to a salesman when you are comparing my top of the line car to a budget car at another car lot. And you are telling me my car is too high, but you don't want to look at my budget car. You can see what I mean, compare apples to apples.

Looking for a new car?

To negotiate to your advantage you must break your car deal into components. You are saying, Components? Yes, your car purchase has several affecting components. You may have a Trade In - 1 component, Price on the auto of your choice - 2ND component, and the Interest Rate at which you will finance - 3rd component. You also have some sub-components like how long you will finance your car. Will you finance for 60 months, 72 months, etc, but we will leave that for another discussion. Lets focus on Purchase Price, Trade In, and Interest Rate. These are the 3 main things that are negotiable on a new car purchase and used car purchase.

My first car negotiation tip is an easy one and the main component when buying a car. The price of the car your are buying is negotiable. You will have a salesman tell you the vehicle is already discounted from the factory with rebates. You and I both know the car can still be discounted from the dealership unless you are buying a Saturn with one price shopping. I will say GM has gone to value pricing and it has narrowed the margin of discount, but it still can be discounted. The best way to find out what you can buy the car for is at Yahoo! Autos This is a FREE service so take advantage of it. Just click the link and pick the make and model you are shopping. You will be taken to a second page with 3 simple steps. Fill in the form with which trim level, color, and any comments for other options. Fill in the 2ND step with your name, address, phone, and email. The last 2 questions are payment method to see if you will be using rebates, and buying how soon--put within 48 hours or your quote will be set aside. The 3rd step is important, make sure you check the box for (select all dealers). This will ensure you get the lowest price possible. Then click the button that says (Get Free Dealer Quotes). Sit back and check your email for the easiest way to get quotes quick. If you do nothing else, follow this step as it can save you thousands. You can also go back and select another make and model you are shopping to comparison price shop.

The second negotiation tip has to do with interest rate when financing your auto. Many do not realize that one of the most profitable aspects for the dealership is financing a car. Here is how it works. The dealership does not finance the car, they actually finance with outside banks and just do all the paperwork necessary for the bank. The dealership sends the signed paperwork to the bank and the bank cuts the dealership a check. This is why all dealership sales are cash sales, but cash sales do not make any money for these car-lots. The dealership pulls your credit and sends it to the appropriate bank. The bank sends an answer back that says your buy rate is 5.75% or whatever it is according to your credit. Now, pay attention, this is when the dealership says we can do the loan for you at 7.75%. These 2 percentage points on a 20,000, 30,000, or even 40 or 50,000 auto can add up. The bank will then finance your car, send the dealership their money for profit on the car and interest profit over what they charge. So the question is how do you know what interest rate you deserve. I would say check with your bank, but dealerships get lower rates than a customer from some banks so why not apply for a loan directly with a Direct-To-Consumer Lender, Roadloans. Dealerships are not allowed to use Roadloans as they only deal directly with the consumer. And, when approved you will get a blank check overnight in the mail with instructions to buy a car. Now you are a CASH Buyer!

The last negotiation tip is when it comes to trading a vehicle. This one is a little more difficult, but there are a few tips to ensure you get the most for your trade. The biggest problem when it comes to the trade in is negative equity. I have a few tips at Negative Equity; Trading a Car When You Are Upside Down! Another way to avoid being upside down is to check out tips to sell your car instead of trade. kbb.com is a good place to see what your car is worth. When you put your vehicle in, make sure you don't put excellent condition. The dealership must figure in expenses with your trade such as running it through service to check it out, detailing, getting dents and dings out, etc. Kelly Blue Book figures are a little high anyway unless you are in California or some of the other big cities.

When you have received your low quote, obtained financing, and found what your vehicle is worth, it is time to go to the dealership. It should be pretty easy at this point. You already have the price you will pay and financing, so it comes down to trade in at this point if you even have a trade. This should be the easiest car you have ever purchased.

Used Car Prices and how they are determined!

Bankruptcy is one of those things people hate to do, but sometimes is the only way out of a desperate situation. After Bankruptcy, it is possible to get a Car Loan!

After Bankruptcy, go to your local bank and see about taking out a small personal loan with some collateral. It does not have to be a large amount to start out. Try borrowing $300 and put your computer or TV up for collateral. This is just a start to building your credit up after bankruptcy.

Next, apply for a credit card. This is what got most in Bankruptcy trouble in the first place so be careful. A high risk card may have a large fee just for opening. You may have a $200 balance the day you open the card, but this is just to get a start on your credit. Do Not go out and charge a large amount on the card. After 3 or 4 payments, your limit will be raised so do not get carried away. You want to always keep your balance on a credit card below half of the available limit to get maximum points on your credit score.

After Bankruptcy, you do not have to pay extra for a car. Some loans do require you to pay an acquisition fee, but do not think you have to pay full sticker for the car. Go To Yahoo! Autosand get a FREE QUOTE on the vehicle of your choice. Make sure you fill the form out completely and they will fight for your business. This will give you a price before credit is ever discussed.

You may find these articles useful as well:
Credit Scores; What They Mean And How To Improve Them.
Used Car Buying Tips
Bad Credit Car Loans!

Car Financing – The F&I Department
By Jeff Neilan

OK, you’ve finally gotten through the front end part of buying your car. You have worked hard done some tough negotiating and feel like you have negotiated a good and fair deal on your car purchase and trade-in. Now it’s time to head into the dealer’s F&I (finance and insurance) department and go through the formality of signing the financing paper work on the back end of the deal.

You may have noticed a couple of terms: front end and back end. I used these terms to illustrate a point to you. From a car dealer perspective there are two distinct parts (profit centers) to each deal. The front end of the deal is the new car price, your trade in, any dealer add on’s that they got you to buy with your new car, etc. All of this, most everyone is indeed familiar with. The second part of the deal, the back end, is not a place to let your guard down. The back end is the F&I department. The F&I manager is every bit as responsible for making sales numbers and profit margins as everyone else at the dealership and they are sales people NOT financial advisers and their purpose is to help maximize the profit on the deal.

Don’t assume that you are going to be offered the best possible interest rate you can get by the F&I manager. Quite the opposite! Adding a point or two (or more) to your contract interest rate above what you qualify for is a serious profit maker for the dealer.

Also keep in mind that all of your hard work negotiating your deal on the front end has been by in large verbal and perhaps a handshake. True, as a result, you may have a signed buyers order or worksheet that the salesperson and or manager have signed off on, but it is in the F&I department where all of this gets put into contract form.

Stay focused. Some dealers and salespeople may even imply that in order for the deal to get approved, you have to finance through their finance department. You don’t. In fact, if you have done your homework and found a better financing offer, you should take it. At the very least, you know what numbers you qualify for, and as such you should ask the car dealership to try to better what you already have.

Read the contract. Sound so basic, but most people don’t. Don’t just assume that everything that you negotiated with the dealership on the front end will make its way to the back end of your car deal. If you’ve had a long day negotiating to get the price you want, don’t give it all back in the F&I department by getting lazy at this very crucial time.

Without question, the single biggest mistake car buyers make is failing to prepare. That, and setting your expectation that car buying and the negotiating process within can take at best several hours to accomplish. Know that you are going to be at the dealership for a while can help you stay energized and focused. Do your homework. Know your credit score. Get your financing pre-approved and see if the dealer can beat what you already have. Be familiar with all the areas of potential sales and profit that the dealer can potentially land. Know what extras (if any) you will and will not pay for. Make sure the contract in the F&I department reflects all the negotiations that you have worked to accomplish before hand. Then, finally, remain on your toes and don’t drop your guard once in the F&I department.

RELATED ARTICLES:
New Car Negotiation, Price Quotes, and Finance Advice
Car Buying Price Negotiation
Used Car Buying Tips,

Jeff Neilan worked for many years in the automotive industry as a salesman,
finance manager, new and used car manager, and sales manager. With Jeff's working knowledge of car dealerships you'll find his articles on getting your best car deal insightful and rewarding when purchasing your next car.

Credit Scores; What They Mean And How To Improve Your Credit

Credit Scores are a ranking system of your Credit to determine what you can buy and at what interest rate you will receive when buying.

Credit Lenders use a Credit Scoring system when extending credit to buyers. Good credit would be a score of 700 or better, 650-699, 600-649, etc. The higher your credit score, the better your credit and the lower your interest rate.

There are many factors that will lower your credit score. One of the main factors that lowers your score is inquiries and this is something you can work on immediately. Do not let your credit be pulled numerous times. When you go to buy a car, many dealerships will send your credit information to numerous lenders in the hopes of an approval from one of the sources. Try getting your financing worked out before ever entering the dealership.

Another factor that will lower your score is being over 30 days late on an existing loan, doctor bills, charge offs, bankruptcy, repossessions, etc. Try paying old debts off. Contact these lenders that were owed money and negotiate. Tell them you will pay a certain amount if the item were deleted from your credit report. Many will work with you because it is a debt they did not expect to see any money from.

A great tip to raise your credit score is to pay off some credit card debt. A credit card that has a $500 limit should have a balance of $250 or less for maximum points. If you have a $500 limit and you are maxed out, it will actually deduct points from your credit score. If you have no credit card debt, consider applying for a credit card and charge a small amount and pay it off early. Remember not to charge over 50% of what the credit limit is though or you will have points deducted.
Trading With Negative Equity

A smartbuy with GMAC is similar to a lease, but at the end of a smartbuy, you have options. You have the option to drop the car off and walk away, sell the car, keep the car and finance the balance.

The benefit of a Smartbuy compared to a standard lease program is that you are guaranteed financing by GMAC if you decide to keep the vehicle. When considering a lease, if you are late on a few payments, you may have difficulty financing the car for the remainder of the term.

A Smartbuy will allow the purchaser to obtain a lower payment while still having their name on the title. Whereas, in a standard lease, the finance companys name would be on the title; in this instance, GMAC. You will also have to carry lower deductibles with a standard lease, where the smartbuy you can carry standard Insurance deductibles.

I tell customers that if they drive low mileage, like 12000-15000 miles per year, the smartbuy is the ticket. Many say they want to buy the vehicle because they hate to pay for a car they never own. But, consider what amount you received for trade-in on the last 4 year old car you thought you owned. When in reality, money was still owed on the vehicle and you was several thousand dollars upside down. If you were in a smartbuy, you start new again. If you buy, you pay more per month and carry money over on the next vehicle.

Some terms you need to know in a lease or smart-buy. The first is Cap Cost or Capitalized Cost. Cap Cost is the amount that you pay for the vehicle. Therefor, Cap Cost Reduction would be anything that decreases this figure, Down payment, trade in, rebates, etc. The last scary term to know is Residual Value. This is a figure determined by manufacturers of what your car will be worth in 2, 3, or 4 years. Cars depreciate and are given a percentage of what they will be worth at lease signing. This is actually a great thing because when you purchase, you do not know what your vehicle will be worth in 4 years. If your car is given a residual value of 50%. This means you will pay 50% of the vehicle minus any cap cost reductions. This in a nutshell is leasing. It is not scary, just scary terms!

Remember, price is still negotiable in a lease. For a lower lease payment, a lower price always works! Get Your FREE Quoteon the vehicle you are considering to lease. This will give you a free price quote and save you thousands.

Check out New Bonus Cash on all Leased Vehicles. Big Bonus Cash Money can be used for anyone leasing a vehicle even if it is not GM!!!

HELPFUL CAR BUYING TOPICS:
New Car Negotiation, Price Quotes, and Finance Advice
Car Buying Price Negotiation
Auto Insurance Saving Tips
Extended Auto Warranty Advice
Bad Credit Car Loan
Get The Lowest Price From Your Local Dealer
Subscribe To Car Buying Tips

Used Car Prices and how they are determined!

Can Bad Credit be Deleted?

Yes, it can. Despite the fervent proclamations of bureaucrats and credit bureaus everywhere, a simple fact remains: negative credit listings are deleted from peoples' credit reports by the thousands each and every day.

A few years ago, an attorney from Lexington Law. visited with a regulatory agency for a casual conversation with two agents. The Agency's office, as a matter of course, believed the credit bureaus' claim that bad credit couldn't be deleted. The visiting Lexington attorney asked,

How many negative listings would you have to see deleted from consumer credit reports before you would believe that bad credit can be deleted: ten? fifty? a hundred? one thousand?

The agents responded with only blank stares.

How about 50,000 deleted listings, would that convince you?

continued the Lexington attorney. From his briefcase he pulled a stack of papers six inches high.

In these pages, we have listed the permanent deletion of over 50,000. listings from our clients files in the last two years alone,

he explained. The agents pulled the stack across the conference table and began to pick through the pages, taking in the massive list.

But have you deleted any bankruptcies?

shot back one of the agents,

we know that bankruptcies can't be deleted.

The Lexington attorney leaned across the table and ran his finger down the first page.

There's one deleted bankruptcy... and, there's another,... and another,... and another. Should I go on?

asked the Lexington attorney.

The agents sat back in their chairs.

You Know,

began the junior agent,

I have this one listing on my credit report that simply must belong to somebody else...

How is credit repair possible?

The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) allows a consumer to challenge the information on his credit report on the basis of "completeness and accuracy." When a consumer files a dispute, the credit bureaus must contact the source of the credit information (the creditor) and confirm that the information is accurate, verifiable, and not obsolete. In some circumstances, the credit bureau is required to go beyond a simple verification of the creditor's own computer record. If, within 30 days, the credit bureau has not received verification from the creditor, then the credit bureau must promptly delete the credit listing. Learn More.

Here are some great used car buying tips to save you money. They are in no specific order, but maybe they will save you some money!

1 Check NADA.com for pricing on the used car you are looking at. This is what most banks use to finance cars.

2 Check Kelly Blue Book for a guide on your trade.

3 Dont get too caught up on the trade value as most never get payoff for their vehicle. Instead, look at the bottom line. If the dealer uses wholesale on your trade, make sure you get wholesale price on the used car you are buying.

4 Consider financing the used car for fewer months. Try doing 48 months if you can swing the payment. If you finance longer, try paying a little extra on months that you can. Know your Credit Score. Get Your Equifax Credit Report Now!


5 Negotiate your best deal! After you have done this, tell the dealer they have a deal if they will pull a carfax report and everything is clean. Dont pay for a carfax yourself. Most dealers have an account where they can pull it for you.

6 Check the oil in the used car you are buying to make sure it has been changed. You can check inside the windshield, there will usually be a sticker telling when the next oil change is due. Check the back exhaust to make sure there is not excessive black residue around the opening--this would indicate that it may be burning oil.

7 Once you have negotiated your best deal, tell the salesman that you have one more used car to check out at a nearby dealer. Go to your car, even if you drive around the building and come back. If they let you leave, you are probably getting the best deal possible.

8 Remember to apply for your financing prior to looking for a used car. Try applying online at RoadLoans Auto Finance. I have sold 2 customers this week with roadloan checks in their hand. Roadloan and will make sure that you do not pay too much for your used car. Roadloan gave my customer a better rate that I could offer! DONT FORGET, it is FREE to apply online through Roadloan. Click the link above and you will be taken directly to the 5 minute application. You will get an email with the results almost instantly.

9 Check your insurance on a specific car before you sign the dotted line. Shop and Compare Insurance online to see who will give you the best quote.

10 After you have purchased your car, make sure you do not leave anything in your trade because the trade may be gone by the time you return. Check your CD player and above your visors, and dont forget your garage door opener.

If you do not get treated professionally, go to another dealership. How you are treated at the time of purchase is a good indication of how you will be treated if you have a problem. Even though you are buying a used car, it is new to you. Most dealers will gladly take your business, even if they do not make as much on you as the next because you are equipped with some great car buying tips.

Used Car Prices and how they are determined!

I had my first customer that purchased a vehicle with an online approval through Roadloans. You cannot beat receiving a blank check from a finance company and being able to negotiate like a cash buyer. They approved my customer for $15000 and financed 120% or NADA retail value which is easy to do. Many finance companys will approve a customer for 80% of loan value, which means the customer will have to pay $3000 or $4000 down to make a vehicle work. Roadloans gives you a way to finance a vehicle without putting a ton of money down. This is a great option for anyone looking to buy a car and they are not real strict with credit requirements. You do not have to have perfect credit to apply with them.

As Summer is heating up, so are incentives to drive car sales. The question always is, do I take the low interest incentive or the rebate? It is an either or situation and usually the dealership will figure which way will be most benificial to the customer, but take a proactive approach and decide for yourself to make sure you are getting the best deal possible. First, you must find out what type of interest rate you can get if you take the rebate. You can apply at a reputable finance company online to find out. You can fill out a short form with the type of car you are looking at to find the rate you will receive. Now that you know the rate you will receive, check and see what the low interest incentive is and the rebate on the auto you are looking at. You can get this from the dealership or you can go to the respective manufacturers website (ie gm.com). After you have this info., use a payment calculator and see which way is more benificial. Something to consider, if you trade often, take the rebate! This will make your payoff less when you go to trade as most interest charges will be deducted when a payoff is figured. Bottom line, take some preperation before going to the dealership. If you are unsure, have the dealership figure both ways for you and analyze the results. Ask the Salesman for their opinion, most have nothing to gain by giving you advice on rebates versus low interest unless they get paid on the back end, meaning they get paid on finance income, which most do not.

If you know you do not have the best of credit, there are a few things to remember. Do not go with the intention of buying the most expensive car. Realize that you have to start somewhere, get an affordable car and work your way up, after re-establishing your credit. When you are serious about buying a car, take a few things that will ensure there are no mistakes in your approval process. Take a check stub so that the correct income will be used. I have been told on many occasions that someone makes $40,000 a year, gets approved, and the check stub verifies $22000 a year. Save yourself some time, bring a check stub with you. Also, bring a phone bill, electric bill, for proof of residence. Have at least 7 references with names, phone #s, and addresses. Have proof of insurance, drivers license, and discharge letters for those who may have filed bankruptcy, title to trade, etc. If you have your proper documentation up front, there is a very good chance you will get approved and be riding the same day.

Before you buy an auto, know your credit score. This will help you determine what type of interest rate you will pay. A score over 700 will get you the best rate. A score from 650-700 is still good, but under 650 will start to increase the interest rate you will pay. The Equifax link on this post will give you an idea of what your credit is and what items you can pay off to make it better. Most customers do not know the items on their credit report. Don't make this mistake! Always check your credit at least every 6 months to make sure all items on your credit are yours.

The Credit Crunch has made Car Buyers more aware of keeping their Equifax score at its best, especially since many lenders are only using Equifax Credit Scores. Another problem many customers are having is the highest white collar crime ever committed, Identity Theft! Get Equifax Score Watch Now! and avoid this costly and long term problem. It is almost impossible to get items removed from your Credit Report, even though they may be from Identity Theft.

One of the biggest expenses when buying a car, is the financing. The finance manager at a dealership only gets paid when you contract at a higher rate than what he can buy the money for. Lets say you qualify for 5.9%, the finance manager is going to make a point or maybe even 2 points and charge you 7.9%. Shop around and always check the bank you do your banking with. Also, check local credit unions that offer auto loans to the public. If you shop the best deal, you will save 10 to 20, maybe even 30 or 40 dollars a month. Multiply this by the number of months that you finance the car. Dont forget to check online sources for auto financing, those at the top right of this page are great starting points.

This article has been revised and moved Here! Just in case anyone is still following this link.

If you have ever been to buy a car and the salesman told you he could not get you financed, you would want advice to improve your credit score. The #1 way to improve your credit score is to keep your credit card debt to a minimum. If you have a $500 credit limit on your card, keep your balance at $249 or less. If you go over half of your credit limit, you will not receive maximum points on your credit score. Get a copy of your credit report and analyze ways to improve your score. There may be items on there from years back that you already forgot about. If there is an old debt, contact that company and see about a settlement to get it off your report. If there are errors on your report, contact the credit bureau and dispute these items. The main thing is always be aware what is on your credit and take a proactive approach to keeping it clean.